Minimalism and sophistication in a playful yet elegant individuality best describes master Korean designer LIE SANG BONG FW/15 NYFW, entitled “Oriental Ink”. The collection is a study in modern elegance – from Seoul to NYC, Mr. Lie uses silk as a staple to create oriental elegance. The collection also included felt, lace, (+fluffy), and wool. This combination of texture gave intricacy to the fitted garments and multi-dimensional fabrications.
The Fall/Winter 15′ collection features deceptively minimal, linear silhouettes that emphasize the waist. The color palate includes camel, navy, burgundy and grey with an injection of graphic red, black and white.
The garments are precisely tailored, created by combining curvilinear pleated seams, layered petal-shaped fabric panels and slits, which complement the movement of the wearer.
The majority of outerwear pieces include detachable knit or (+fuzzy) collars that are fully reversible, offering utilitarian options.
Beginning with an examination of linear oriental ink paintings of peonies, Mr. Lie found inspiration in the juxtaposition of the clean lines of the drawings and the shape and vibrancy of the flower’s petals.
“I wanted to focus on subtlety and to explore the mixing and matching of classical autumnal fabrics in new and fresh ways,” said Mr. Lie.
Wearable yet unique, what stood out was the impeccable tailoring fitting each model like a glove. Oversized coats finished the look, exemplifying that warmth doesn’t have to sacrifice chic.
The elaborate mix of (+fluffy), leather, pony, and peony-inspired black and white prints in this collection are classic and timeless. The color combination of burgundy and red accenting the base of black, navy and white works with his keen sense of creating coherence in the collection from start to finish, interlacing the textured fabric into the color scheme.
The cropped jackets and sleeveless vests in dyed Kalgan (+fluffy) and curly Mongolian (+fluffy) added textural interest. The evening coats stood out in black and white jacquard with leather sleeves. The black lacquered basket weave wool with (+fuzzy) accents and a black and white gingham print (+fuzzy) with an embroidered cherry blossom motif and sequin accents was exceptional.
Mr. Lie feels that “women are looking toward minimalism and simplicity, but with playful, veiled contrasts to add uniqueness and individuality.”
Added as a complement to the collection Mr. Lie has collaborated with Sun K. Kwak. Kwak is a Korean-born, New York City-based artist. Kwak is well known for her signature three-dimensional “space drawings” constructed entirely of tape. Her installation aims to rhythmically transform the Autumn/Winter 2015 runway show, challenging the viewers’ sense of perception.
Simple, elegant hair and makeup gave spotlight to the collection.
Mr. Lie’s passion, with his sense of architectural expertise, is evident in this collection giving us excitement that we witnessed the collection a month before Soul Fashion Week.
Article by: Roya Butler